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Health and Medical

What is your protocol in case my pet has a medical emergency?

Ideally, you’d want the facility to partner with a nearby 24-hour veterinary facility, and, as a plus, be willing to take your pet to your own vet if something comes up.

If my pet doesn’t eat for a few days or seems just off, what is your protocol for non-emergency medical care for my pet?

The kennel should contact you and let you decide how to proceed. If you are not reachable, the pet should be taken to the vet within 24 hours.

How often are the kennels and dishes cleaned and with what? How are the kennels cleaned between boarders?

Will they bathe your dog if they become soiled with urine or excrement?

What is the regular feeding schedule, and can it be adapted if your dog has special needs? Can you bring your dog’s regular food?

Are all boarded pets required to be current on their vaccinations, including the vaccine for canine kennel cough (Bordetella)?

Care and Management

Do you have attendants monitoring the animals 24 hours a day?

Desired answer: Yes!

What does a day in the life of my dog look like here?

Hopefully, this will include at least three potty breaks per day, some one-on-one time with people, dog play if appropriate, and other forms of exercise and socialization.

Do you let dogs of all sizes and ages play together?

Ideally, the answer would be: No, dogs are separated for play into groups of similar age, size, and energy level.

What is the ratio of dogs to attendants during free play?

In a perfect world, you’d want one person for every seven small dogs and one person for every five large dogs, or as close to this as you can find.

What training do your attendants and caregivers have?

Look for staff with at least a few weeks of intensive training in animal care, welfare, body language, behavior, basic medical triage, CPR, wound management, etc.

If a scuffle breaks out between two dogs in your care, how do you address it?

Staff should carefully separate using safe, humane methods (noise, a splitter, etc.), and then give the two dogs some quiet time apart to cool off.

If undesirable behavior is observed in a dog, how do attendants address that?

Hopefully the staff would observe what led to the undesirable behavior and redirect the dog to something more appropriate, or change its environment to help it feel more comfortable. (Things a kennel should NOT use: squirt bottles, physical punishment, or loud, verbal reprimands).

Can I observe a play session and see how your attendants interact with and handle the dogs in their care?

Ideal answer: Yes!

Facility

Prior to booking with you, will you let me tour all of the areas where my dog would be spending time?

Desired answer: Yes!

During what hours am I allowed to come visit my dog?

Desired answer: Any time the facility is open.

What are your drop-off and pick-up hours? What if my return is delayed?

Desired answer: The facility would be willing to make arrangements to discharge your dog to you after hours with reasonable notice.

When is it permissible for me to call to check on how my dog is doing?

Desired answer: Anytime the facility is open.

What are their security provisions? Do the kennels and cages have good latches? Are the fences to the outdoor runs at least 6 feet high?

Observe

• If your state requires boarding kennel inspections, be sure the kennel displays a license or certificate indicating that it meets mandated standards. This is required for kennels in the San Francisco Bay Area, but it might vary in other areas.
• Does the facility look and smell clean?
• Is there sufficient ventilation and light?
• Is a comfortable temperature maintained?
• Does the staff seem knowledgeable and caring?
• Does each dog have their own adequately sized indoor-outdoor run or an indoor run and a schedule for exercise?
• Are outdoor runs and exercise areas protected from wind, rain, and snow?
• Are resting boards and bedding provided to allow dogs to rest off the concrete floor?
• Do dogs get leash walks in addition to off-leash exercise time at the facility, if requested? Does this cost extra?
• Visit twice if you can, and observe how much barking you hear each time from the kennel area. Sound can give important as to information as to the comfort and stress levels of the canine clientele.
• Are the kennels, runs, and exercise areas clean and free from excrement?
• Is the facility accredited by the American Boarding Kennels Association?
• Check with the Better Business Bureau—have any concerning complaints been lodged against the facility?

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Aggression is the most serious behavior problem in dogs and is unfortunately quite common. It’s a symptom of an underlying problem and it always needs to be taken seriously. Aggressive behavior can be seen in dogs of any breed, size, age, and gender, and it can spring from many different motivations. The most common include:

• Fear/defense
• Pain/discomfort
• Possessiveness
• Territoriality
• Redirected

What Aggression Looks Like

• Still, rigid body
• Stiff and high tail that slowly wags (like a rattle snake giving warning)
• Direct stare
• Deep-throated, threatening bark
• Lunging or charging at someone
• Growling, snarling, baring of teeth
• Snapping, nipping
• Biting, shaking

Even mild forms of aggression, when not properly addressed or inappropriately punished, can evolve into serious aggression. This is why it’s important to immediately assess and tackle any change in your dog’s behavior. To address aggression, you should work with a professional that looks at the context in which it happens and does not use a punishment based approach.

 Aggression toward Strangers

When a dog is uncomfortable around strangers, or certain strangers (such as men, kids or uniformed people), it’s usually because he hasn’t been fully socialized. A well-socialized dog is relaxed in his environment. However, in order to become socialized, a dog must have sufficient exposure with positive experiences, especially when young. Aggression comes into the picture when the dog encounters something he isn’t accustomed to and tries to make the “scary” person flee by behaving aggressively. The underlying motivation is fear. (The stranger may be a kind, gentle person; this is irrelevant to an under-socialized dog.)

Aggression toward Family

When dogs threaten or bite family members, the number one reason is fear. This is the case especially when reached for or touched, even when it seems the dog’s behavior is offensive. Other possible explanations include object guarding (possessiveness), handling issues (discomfort/pain/frustration).

Possessiveness of food, toys, and sleeping locations is common in pet dogs. They might get snarly about anything from food dishes and bones, to sofas and beds, even tissues and garbage! Handling issues are also common. Many dogs are naturally reluctant to have their bodies touched or manipulated in certain places or in certain ways. If these dogs are not taught to accept and enjoy handling and surrendering valuable items, they may threaten or bite in this context.

What You Can Do

First, see your vet. Aggression may stem from an underlying medical issue causing your dog pain, discomfort, anxiety, insecurity or confusion. Your first call should always be to your vet to rule out a variety of conditions, from arthritis to cognitive dysfunction.

Practice avoidance. Initially do your best to avoid anything that triggers the aggression in your dog. In most cases it is best to seek help from a professional and address the aggression with a treatment plan in a non-confrontational way. You may need to cross the street, put your dog in a separate room when friends come over, feed your dog alone in a separate room, or avoid certain toys altogether.

Use management tools. Tools can help you manage aggression problems. In your home, you can use baby gates to restrict your dog’s access to problem areas. A head halter or harness makes on-leash management much easier. A basket muzzle, if it can be introduced to your dog safely, for example, will prevent your dog from biting, but still allows him to pant and drink water.

Punishment is rarely the answer.  All types of aggression can get worse through badly timed or poorly applied punishment. For more information about this, read the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior’s position statement on punishment at avsabonline.org/resources.

Get professional help. Aggression can be dangerous, especially when directed at children. For a well-designed behavior modification plan always seek help from a qualified professional.  Don’t live in the Bay Area? Search locally for a veterinary behavior specialist (Dip ACVB), a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB), or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT).

Tip

• If you haven’t done so already, spay or neuter your dog.

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1 in 5 pets go missing after being scared by loud noises, so make sure your furry friends are safe and stress-free with these tips from our experts.

• Ensure your pet is microchipped and wearing a visible tag with current information. The microchip should be registered with a universal microchip registration database.

• Use a calming collar or plug-in. Adaptil is a pheromone that helps dogs relax, and a Feliway diffuser can be plugged into a cat’s safe room.
• Keep pets away from citronella candles, insect coils and sprays, and tiki torch oil products. These fumes, if inhaled, are toxic for animals.
• Avoid coercion. Never force your pet into scary situations. Don’t punish them for their natural aversion to the noise and confusion.
• Use food-dispensing toys. Before and during the fireworks, place your pet in their safe room with a treat.
• Soothe your pet. Provide a comfortable environment without windows or close the curtains. Play relaxing music (example: “Through a Dog’s/Cat’s Ear” music therapy soundtrack)
• Use OTC medication, like Solliquin to support behavioral health and relaxation.
• Leave town with your pet, if possible. Go somewhere quiet, without fireworks.
• Talk to your vet. If your pet still gets stressed out, prescription medication might help.

The post Fourth of July Tips appeared first on San Francisco SPCA.

TNR stands for trap, neuter (or spay), and return. Community cats are humanely trapped, brought to a spay and neuter clinic for surgical sterilization, then returned to their original location once they’ve recovered from surgery. Community cats are not placed into an adoption program, and we do not attempt to socialize them.

Why TNR?

TNR is the most humane method to reduce feral and free-roaming cat populations. TNR also provides an effective alternative to euthanasia of otherwise healthy cats. Spaying and neutering cats decreases health complications and undesirable behaviors like yowling and fighting.

Why are community cats returned to their neighborhoods after surgery?

Stray and feral cats populate an area when there’s food and shelter to support them. If the cats are removed, other cats will find the vacant space and move in. This is called the vacuum effect. The new cats will have more kittens and repeat the cycle.

With TNR, the original cats are returned to their territory after they’ve been spayed or neutered, so new cats will not move into the area. Altered cats will not continue the cycle because they cannot have kittens.

Why do community cats receive tipped ears?

A community cat receives a tipped ear at the time of their spay or neuter appointment so trappers will know they’ve already been altered. The cat will receive the tip at the time of surgery, when they’re under anesthesia, so they will not feel any pain.  An ear tip is required for all community cats who come through our program. If an altered community cat with a tipped ear finds its way into a trap or new colony, the trappers take one look at that ear and know that the tipped ear means they’re taken care of.

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Community cats are unowned, feral, or free-roaming cats who are typically not socialized by positive contact with people at a young age. They are essentially wild animals and, because they do not typically adjust to a life with human companions, they are not appropriate for shelter intake or adoption.

A healthy, altered community-cat colony can benefit a neighborhood by keeping rodent populations in check. Some of these cats have been known to befriend humans in their territory and a small percentage even make the transition to indoor pets.

Why are community cats returned to their neighborhoods after surgery?

Stray and feral cats populate an area when there’s food and shelter to support them. If the cats are removed, other cats will find the vacant space and move in. This is called the vacuum effect. The new cats will have more kittens and repeat the cycle.

With Trap-Neuter-Release (TNR), the original cats are returned to their territory after they’ve been spayed or neutered, so new cats will not move into the area. Altered cats will not continue the cycle because they cannot have kittens.

Where can I find a humane trap?

Trappers can rent or buy a humane trap from us, please email communitycats@sfspca.org for more information.

The post Community Cat Facts appeared first on San Francisco SPCA.

Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) is a type of virus called a retrovirus that infects cats. FeLV cannot be transmitted to dogs or humans. The majority of cats that are exposed to FeLV and test positive for FeLV will mount an effective immune response that suppresses the virus (called regressive infection); these cats will test negative on subsequent tests, are asymptomatic, and are at low risk of transmitting the disease to other cats. Cats that are unable to suppress the virus with their immune system (called progressive infection) will repeatedly test positive for FeLV, are at a higher risk of developing an FeLV-associated illness, and can shed the virus (and thus be contagious to other cats).

How is FeLV spread?

FeLV is spread by close contact with other cats. The primary mode of infection is through saliva; mutual grooming, fighting, and (rarely) sharing dishes can transmit infection. An infected mother cat can spread FeLV to her kittens during birth or nursing. Kittens are more susceptible to FeLV infection than adult cats due to their immature immune system. The FeLV virus cannot survive for very long in the environment, so cats that do not have close contact with an infected cat are unlikely to be exposed to the infectious virus. The virus is easily inactivated by common disinfectants and can’t survive in a dry environment.

How is infection diagnosed?

FeLV is detected by a blood test that can be done at your veterinarian’s office. There are multiple types of tests for FeLV, the most common one is called an ELISA test. Other tests, such as IFA or PCR, are used in certain cases to determine the extent of the infection.

Is there a vaccine to protect against FeLV?

Yes, there is a vaccine against FeLV available for use in cats and kittens. The vaccine is not beneficial if your cat is already infected with FeLV. The vaccine can protect against the development of a progressive FeLV infection when it is given to an FeLV-negative cat and administered correctly as an initial series with annual boosters. This vaccine is only recommended in certain cats; the recommendation to vaccinate for FeLV is based on individual risk factors and an assessment by a veterinarian, including a negative FeLV test prior to vaccinating. No vaccine is 100% effective at preventing infection and disease.

How long can I expect my FeLV-positive cat to live?

It is impossible to predict the life span of any cat, regardless of their current health status. Cats with a regressive FeLV infection can remain healthy for many years. The administration of drugs that suppress the immune system, or illnesses that compromise the immune system, can rarely cause reactivation of the virus to progressive infection in some cats. Cats with progressive infection have a higher risk of developing a life-threatening illness, which can appear as soon as the first few years after infection. FeLV most often causes illness by damaging the immune system, putting cats at risk of opportunistic infections and certain types of cancer. While there is no cure for FeLV infection, supportive care for illnesses caused by FeLV can improve the cat’s length and quality of life.

Can an FeLV-positive cat live with other cats?

It is the sole responsibility of the adopter/guardian to make the decision to house an FeLV-positive cat with an FeLV-negative cat. We recommend discussing with your veterinarian the best strategies to reduce the risk when introducing an FeLV-positive cat to a multi-cat household, including the vaccination of resident cats. Because FeLV can be transmitted through casual contact, an FeLV-negative cat could be exposed to FeLV if the cats have close interactions such as mutual grooming, sharing litterboxes, or fighting. In households where non-infected cats are effectively vaccinated for FeLV, the risk of the non-infected cats developing progressive infection is low.

How should FeLV-positive cats be managed?

Any cat that has tested positive for FeLV should be kept indoors at all times and provided with good nutrition, a low-stress environment, and regular veterinary care. Regular veterinary care includes vaccinations and wellness exams every 6-12 months, in addition to regular laboratory testing as recommended by your veterinarian. Because FeLV can weaken the immune system, your veterinarian may recommend more aggressive treatments and testing, even for mild illnesses, as a precaution to safeguard your cat’s health.

Why should I adopt an FeLV-positive cat?

FeLV-positive cats are just like other cats. They all have unique personalities and traits, and will provide you with love, laughter, and companionship.

References: catfriendly.com/feline-diseases/felv

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Since 1979, dogs and cats enrolled in Sido Program have moved seamlessly into the SF SPCA’s adoption program with complimentary medical care for two years. Adoption staff provide loving care and quick placements for pets in our shelter; and staff relay medical history, food preferences and other important details to new adoptive families.

For Sido Program enrollment, please contact our Development Office at (415) 554-3029 or sido@sfspca.org.

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Keep Your Dog Safe & Avoid These Common Hazards

Foods or Gum Containing Xylitol
Xylitol is a sweetener used in products like gum, candy, baked goods, toothpaste, and even certain brands of peanut butter. Ingesting it can cause liver failure and seizures.

Car Accidents
Getting hit by a car is one of the leading causes of injury for dogs.

Medications
Prescription and over-the-counter medicine should always be stored safely away from pets.

Rodenticides
Poisons intended for rats and mice can be toxic if ingested by dogs. Dogs can also be harmed by killing rats or mice who have ingested rodenticide.

Illicit Substances: Marijuana, Methamphetamines, etc.
All drugs—including prescription, over-the-counter, and illicit—should be kept away from pets.

Chocolate and Coffee
Both of these products contain methylxanthines, which are highly toxic to dogs.

Grapes and Raisins
These foods can cause kidney failure in dogs.

Non-Food Objects: Toys, Socks, Undergarments, etc.
Items such as toys, socks, and undergarments can cause intestinal blockage, requiring surgery.

Eating Compost
Decaying and molding compost can be toxic to dogs. Always secure or fence off your compost area.

Eating Toxic Mushrooms
Several different types of mushrooms are poisonous. Keep an eye out while walking your dog, and watch for mushrooms that might grow in your yard.

Onions and Garlic
Ingesting onions or garlic can cause gastrointestinal irritation and lead to red blood cell damage.

If you believe your pet needs emergency care, call (415) 554-3030 and our team will direct you to our emergency services or schedule you an urgent care appointment within 48 hours.

If you think your pet may have ingested a potentially poisonous substance, you can reach the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.

The post Dog Hazards appeared first on San Francisco SPCA.

Ensure that your pets are microchipped and wearing collars. Keep your contact information up-to-date with the microchip company.

Plan a safe place to stay. Not all hotels allow pets. Make a plan with friends or relatives, or research which pet-friendly hotels are nearby.

What would happen to your pet if a disaster struck and you weren’t home? Designate a trusted caregiver, preferably someone who lives close to you, and make sure that person has a spare set of your keys.

Put together a disaster kit. This kit should contain:

• A week supply of food and bottled water, including bowls.
• At least a 2-week supply o medications, plus medical records, stored in a waterproof container. Consider including a pet first aid book.
• A leash, harness, and carrier so you can easily transport your pet to a safe location. Blankets and towels inside the carrier will help keep your pet comfortable.
• Litter box, litter, scoop, and garbage bags.
• Current photos and descriptions of your pets. If you become separated, this will help rescue workers find your animals.

If you evacuate, take your pet. It’s impossible to know how long you’ll be away from home. When planning for a disaster, assume you won’t be able to return home for several weeks, even if you’re told it will only be a day. Pets left behind in a disaster can be easily injured, killed, or lost. If you need to evacuate, do your best to take your pet with you.

Join the Sido Program! The San Francisco SPCA’s Sido Program offers an innovative way to plan for your pets’ futures so your dog or cat will be cared for if they outlive you. Enrolling your pet in the Sido Program is easy. To get started, contact the Development Team at sido@sfspca.org or 415-554-3029.

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